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Goldsmiths' Official Student Magazine

Young Thug and his beloved ‘Jeffery’ dress

27 January 2017
Victoria Lancaster talks Alessandro Trincone's collection 'Annodami' and his iconic 'Jeffery' dress

The cover art of Young Thug’ s No, My Name is Jeffery project may be the next big movement towards androgyny in fashion. More so than that, it may bring to light a new age form of masculinity that depends on characteristics which are (or were) inherently feminine.

Thug has quickly become known for his progressive mood- and this is not the first time he’ s worn a dress to make a cultural statement. Just months back he donned a women’ s look in part with his Calvin Klein fall campaign. While hip hop icons like Thug help to surface such ways that fashion can enliven new cultural norms, the designers behind the dismissal of the gender binary are often forgotten.

Alessandro Trincone is the Italian designer behind the beautifully decadent, baby blue garment. Trincone shares similar beliefs to Thug when it comes to genderless boundaries, and his silhouettes certainly reinforce this contemporary attitude. More so than the attention this bring to the not so fleeting idea of blurred gender lines, this most recent statement pushes questions of masculinity- is it still synonymous with virility or perhaps with something that’ s more innately feminine? Why are dresses, which have for decades been stapled by society as a “traditionally” or “elegantly” female garment, now being widely embraced by icons similar to Young Thug?

What exactly is it about dresses that are so remarkably feminine and also have the ability to raise chatter when embraced by a male, or perhaps it’ s all just a fatal flaw of the Western world of fashion? The dress has evolved throughout history to have a high neckline in the 19th century with floor sweeping hems to the 20 and 21st century mini skirts. They were once worn over rotund hoop skirts and have since become less structured, but perhaps sometimes tighter. The dresses evolution, its hems which have moved up and down, in and out, can be seen as a reflection, more or less, of the state of femininity and now perhaps the state of masculinity- or the possibility that they are in fact one in the same, unable to exist independent from each other.

Trincone’ s collection “Annodami”(which includes the ‘Jeffery’ Dress) has a variety of other Japanese inspired pieces, all soft in colour and layered in billows of texture. The designer said that the collection was an expression of his own identity and challenge in expressing himself in a contemporary and “evil” world.

The dress is a staple of fashion that will doubtfully ever disappear, however, it’s path will be an interesting one to follow with the likes of artists like Young Thug wearing them time and again. For an artist making music in a undeniably male dominated and “tough”hip hop world, a garment such as the dress could prove to be a new weapon with which such stereotypical norms are put to the test. It’ll be interesting to see who follows suit.